Queen Victoria chose Bytown as the capital in 1857 — a compromise between Toronto, Montréal, Québec City and Kingston, and a defensible distance from the American border. The name changed to Ottawa, the lumber trade built the early fortunes, and the federal apparatus arrived afterward.

That origin still explains the shape of the place. Two provinces face each other across the water, so a single afternoon can move between Ontario and Québec, English and French, federal grandeur and neighbourhood scale. The national museums are clustered within walking distance of one another, and almost all of them are within sight of the river.

What visitors underestimate is how quickly the city ends. Gatineau Park's escarpment trails begin twenty minutes from Parliament Hill; the Rideau and Ottawa rivers are used year-round for paddling, cycling and, in February, skating. Ottawa's culture is outdoor first and institutional second.